I drove the Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands along the way
IT’S Ireland’s answer to Route 66 – only with jaw-dropping natural beauty instead of neon signs along its 1,500 miles of coastal roads.
The Wild Atlantic Way hugs Ireland’s western coast — and expect soaring cliffs, deserted golden beaches, brooding mountains, crystal-clear waters and mystical islands off the mainland.
The remote Aran Islands offer something truly different.
The stunning scenery, deep culture and friendly people are a given — perhaps that’s just the luck of the Irish.
But Europe’s edge — the last islands to the west before you reach America — are shrouded in legend, folklore and myth.
It’s no surprise they were used as the backdrop for various films including Oscar-nominated The Banshees of Inisherin, starring Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson.
Famed for wild landscapes, distinctive knitwear and pretty cottages, the Irish-speaking Aran Islands offer the chance to disconnect from the modern world.
The rugged terrain has a softness to it, as do the locals.
Hidden caves
The isle of Inis Mor was our first stop — 12.5 miles off the coast of Co Galway.
It is the largest of the three in the archipelago (8.7 miles long and 2.4 miles wide) and has a population of roughly 800.
The natural elements created a chiselled coastline complete with a seal colony and rare birds which complement the ancient ruins, local cafés and buzzing nightlife.
There are plenty of historical sites to see.
We took a tour with Aran Hiking and Biking which included Dún Aonghasa, an ancient stone fort perched on the cliff edge above the rolling waves of the Atlantic, and well worth the trek.
We stopped by Teach Nan Phaidí for a hearty, homely lunch and one of the best fish pies I’ve ever had.
Afterwards, we nosed around the knitwear shop before heading back on the road for an enjoyable afternoon of more tales and legends.
At Aran Islands Goats Cheese, award-winning farmer and cheese-maker Gabriel plied us with doses of lactic decadence.
The goat’s cheese with seaweed may sound hit or miss but it was a very firm favourite, and kids would enjoy being on this relaxed farm.
The ancient Black Fort, Na Seacht dTeampaíll (The Seven Churches), and The Round Tower were also worth the trip, and then it was back to base at the Aran Islands Hotel.
Every March, the hotel hosts The Friends of Ted Festival — an annual fan convention for the classic Channel 4 sitcom Father Ted.
For dinner we headed to Joe Watty’s Bar & Restaurant for seafood and battled with the freshest crab claws.
Our meal was washed down with local tipples accompanied by a live soundtrack of traditional Irish music complete with fiddle.
After a ferry back to the mainland we drove north on the winding roads carved into the backdrop of the Connemara National Park.
From the jetty at Cleggen we caught a 40-minute ferry to Inishbofin.
Arriving was like something out of a pirate film — complete with turquoise waters, white sandy beaches and dramatic cliffs where Cromwell had his barracks and hidden caves were bases for pirates.
The island is a sanctuary for bird- life and is much greener and lusher than the starker Inis Mor.
After checking in to Inishbofin House Hotel, with views of the harbour, it was on with a wetsuit to go kayaking around the coves.
Lunch was a sensationally simple lobster and chips slathered with garlic butter at the Beach Bar overlooking the beautiful bay.
Lobster and chips
There’s a wide variety of activities including walking, hiking, cycling, birdwatching and sea fishing.
Or try canoeing, sailing, snorkelling, windsurfing and waterskiing.
The rocky coastline hosts a large variety of sealife and you can even pick edible seaweeds.
But we opted for a slower-paced afternoon in the meandering lanes to ascend to the peak of Croc Mor with our guide, islander Tommy Burke — our efforts rewarded by the views from atop.
Tommy pointed out the unique white face of An Earagail Mountain (Mount Errigal), and seascapes from Cnoc Fola (Bloody Foreland) to distant Toraigh (Tory Island), to the tip of Horn Head.
Our evening was spent enjoying yet more excellent fresh seafood at Saltbox, a quirky food truck.
In season, it has to be the crab claws or lobster rolls.
Tummies full, what better way to end the night than by heading off on a pub crawl of the island’s four drinking holes.
We wound up gatecrashing a local wedding at Murray’s Bar at the Doonmore Hotel only to be made honorary guests.
We drank well into the wee hours enjoying Irish folk music, song, dance and, of course, great craic.
GO: IRELAND
GETTING THERE: Fly to Dublin or Knock from from £19.99 return.
Aran Island Ferry to Inis Mor from £26 return.
See aranislandferries.com. Inishbofin ferry from £22 return.
See inishbofinferry.ie.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Aran Islands Hotel on Inis Mor from £154 per night.
See aranislandshotel.com.
Rooms at Inishbofin House Hotel on Inishbofin from £114 per night including breakfast.
See inishbofinhouse.com.
MORE INFO: See Ireland.com.
